Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city is little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these narratives and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
